The South’s Idyllic Small Town

Edenton, NC, is a tiny town missed by many vacationers on their way to the crowded Outer Banks. Their loss is always my gain. I think of Edenton as my own little secret Charleston.

Location is mostly to blame for its relative obscurity. Edenton is set on the shores of the Albemarle Sound, north of I-64, the main artery leading out to Nags Head and Kill Devil Hills. Travelers must drive two-land roads to get there, but the trip is worthwhile.

The town runs right up to the water, making it a boon for photographers. Its wealth of old-growth trees and relatively untouched marshy landscapes make it a destination for birders, too.

Given Edenton’s compact layout, the best way to explore it is on a bike. Many of the grand old homes feature small plaques showing the construction year. Dates go back to pre-Civil War.

The mill village features rows of tiny, boxy homes where cotton mill workers once lived. Many have been painted bright colors and occupied by empty nesters, second home owners and even families who value the tranquility and beauty of the town. At the center of the village is the rustic brick mill itself, which has been partitioned into condo units.

The best shaved ice in the world can be had at Edenton Steamers games every summer.

For me, there are certain musts on every visit. I love rocking on the back porch of the Barker House, home to a gift store and museum right on the waterfront. I always drive or bike through the mill village. I enjoy the shrimp and crabmeat at Waterman’s Grill, just steps from the Barker House.

And, in the summer, I always catch an Edenton Steamers baseball game, played in North Carolina’s last wooden ballpark. By the way, I also always get a helping of shaved ice at the game. The local vendors make their own syrup and douse the ice with it all the way to the bottom. Wild strawberry is a personal fave.

In terms of where to stay, there are several good options. The Granville Queen Inn is by far the most breathtaking of the B&Bs in the historic district. Birders should stay at the Trestle House Inn, where owner Peter Bogus has listed 137 varieties of birds and has placed four on the rare-bird list for the U.S. For families, the Hampton Inn on the outskirts of town offers a pleasant, out-of-the-way alternative and a great outdoor pool for the little ones.

For more information, log onto www.visitedenton.com.

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